Camino De Santiago (Portugués)

By Jayne Barrelle

My Activity Tracking

250
kms

My target 260 kms

I'm saving lives.

Every day, 79 Aussie men are diagnosed with prostate cancer. That’s why I’ve decided to become an agent of change by joining the PCFA-Team.

I’ll be taking on the Camino Portuguese and raising funds to support men and their families impacted by a prostate cancer diagnosis. From game-changing research to specialised mental and physical care, there is so much more we can, and must, do to save the lives of the men we love. 

Please support me so that  together we can save lives by making a tax-deductible donation to my campaign in support of the Prostate Cancer Foundation of Australia.

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My Updates

KM discrepancy

Wednesday 24th Jun
The distance logged was from my Fitbit.
This was less than both Google maps and the app I used - Camino Ninja.
However, following the Camino map for the Camino Portuguese- coastal via Tui, rest assured the 260km goal was reached and certified by the Pilgrim office in Santiago de Compostela.

More stamps

Thursday 18th Jun

Two stamps required each day of the Camino

Thursday 18th Jun

Acknowledgement

Thursday 18th Jun
This was somewhat harder than I had anticipated as I had not forecast carrying a new injury. However those nearest and dearest to me spurred me on with words of support and encouragement across the miles. 
It has been a time for reflection and contemplation on life - past present and future. 
To all that donated to PCFA on my behalf and supported my Camino - many, many thanks. This was key in my finding the oomph to keep going for 16 days!
All I can say is if you have a dream - go for it! 

Distance certificate

Thursday 18th Jun

Official credential with my Latin name

Thursday 18th Jun

Arrival!

Thursday 18th Jun
I have no words - for once!

Things you see on the trail!

Thursday 18th Jun

Getting closer

Thursday 18th Jun

Day 16 Aldea Pedreira to Santiago de Compostela

Thursday 18th Jun
Final day!
Was on the road at 0613hrs and arrived at the Cathedral in Santiago at 0912hrs. Included in that time was 12 km of partly road, partly wooded trails, 3 hills and a coffee stop about an hour in.
After the obligatory photos, assisting other pilgrims with photos and simply taking in my surroundings it was time for business. A five minute walk to the pilgrim office and my ticket number was 100 - 99 others had arrived before me. On checking the website after closing time 2086 pilgrims had arrived today. That is an average figure.
I had brunch with a fellow pilgrim I knew was still in Santiago and did some shopping before checking in to my accommodation. Tomorrow I’m in a train to Madrid to meet family and have some down time.
In truth, for the last 12 days I have been struggling with a right shin splint. A tight, swollen and inflamed leg coupled with pain and stinging has not made for a pleasant experience. However quitting was not an option and Voltaren gel has become my new friend! Hence the main reason of having my pack transferred.
Tonight it feels strange not planning my path, looking at the map and thinking about timings and temperature checks. 
It’s been an amazing experience and I’ve met some wonderful people along the way.
I’m hoping to add to the funds raised when I catch up with family in the UK but however much money was raised it has been for a very worthy cause.
I’m going to hang up my hiking shoes now!

Camino pianist

Tuesday 16th Jun

Typical trail with the km marker in the foreground

Tuesday 16th Jun

Someone (ahem) thought these were above ground tombs!!

Tuesday 16th Jun
They’re not, they’re to hold grain!

Day 15 Padrón to Aldea Pedreira

Tuesday 16th Jun
A cool overcast day threatening rain but didn’t happen! 15km in 4 hrs with bearable heat but 3 big hills! The trails ran parallel to the main highway and went via twisty little village lanes - quite scenic.
Many pilgrims continuing on to finish in SDC today however that’s my walk tomorrow.
Today was all about the Camino music. About an hour in there was a bagpipe player and a drummer playing for pilgrims on the trail. Then 20mins from the end of today’s walk at the top of a hill was a guy on a keyboard. A short stop, listen and coin donation and another stamp for the credentialing and off we go again. 

Beer o’clock!

Tuesday 16th Jun

Day 14 Caldas de Reis to Padrón

Tuesday 16th Jun
Another biggie in high temps -19.2km and with many breaks plus a few hills factored in, this took 7 hrs.
At the hostel I found out I was sharing the dorm with a woman I had met a few days early in the Convent. 
Padrón is the home of the Padrón pepper. Naturally we tried these at dinner - a small plate of peppers with bread was provided gratis with a glass of very chilled Estrella Galicia beer. The peppers are deep fried and sprinkled with salt - um… nothing special. 

Church of Santa Maria

Tuesday 16th Jun

Don’t pass the road but let the road pass you by

Tuesday 16th Jun

Day 13 Porrañs to Caldas de Reis

Tuesday 16th Jun
A short walk - 8km spread over 4 hrs.
Hostel is huge - close to 100 bunks. Met a woman from Newcastle - 2nd Aussie so far.
Out for dinner - a simple salad but drenched in olive oil - the olives were floating (not quite!)
Meeting mainly Germans of all ages.

Walking through local vineyards

Tuesday 16th Jun

Spanish sunset

Tuesday 16th Jun

Day 12 Pontevedra to Porrañs

Tuesday 16th Jun
Today was a deliberately short day in lieu of a complete rest day - 8km through a Camino trail. Some parts seemed like it was walking through people’s gardens or allotments with many grape vines along the way. Started at 0745 and arrived at hostel at noon. Many stops mainly to escape the heat as temps were high 20’s.
The hostel owners have a hobby farm complete with a few Ostriches. Managed to get some laundry done which dried in no time in the afternoon sun. 
It’s an amazing feeling to think in a few days this will be an experience and a memory!

On the map!

Saturday 13th Jun

Pontevedra public drinking water

Saturday 13th Jun

Day 11 Redondela to Pontevedra

Saturday 13th Jun
Oh boy! Arrghhh! The worst yet!
19 km of hilly mainly road in 30-32 degree C heat and no shade.
Got an early start at 0700hrs knowing it was going to be hot. Bus shelters became my refuge to sit, hydrate and have a snack. 
Arrived at hostel just after 1500hrs.
The hostel staff member told me I was from Tasmania! I agreed! She then said they had never had anyone stay from there before and would I please pin the board? A cork atlas with coloured push pins displaying where visitors where from.
Caught up three Camino friends again and had a lovely dinner and ad we were finishing up at 2200hrs a priest was leading a procession through the narrow streets and right past our restaurant. Maybe a Holy Feast day or a regular Friday night thing? 
4 days left - can’t quite believe it!

$2.60 morning tea!

Saturday 13th Jun

Day 10 Porriño to Redondela

Saturday 13th Jun
16km of mainly road walk.
Left hostel at 0800 and arrived to check in at new hostel at 1400hrs. Frequent stops along the way.
Was able to catch up with two women I met staying in the convent. 
Nice town to visit. 
Interesting to observe all the middle aged men had huge beer bellies here!
A cold Spanish beer is very refreshing however sit in the wrong part of a cafe that’s designated for meals and the wrath of one said Spaniard with a large girth is quite scary!!

Camino marker with km left to SDC

Friday 12th Jun

Day 9 Tui to Porriño

Friday 12th Jun
Today marked the start of the ‘official’ 100km to SDC required to be walked to receive the Pilgrims certificate. 
Most of the walk was through wooded trails and the highlight was the sound of bagpipes being played by a busker! 
17.2km and staggered with a few breaks between 0700hrs and 1345 hrs. It was a long day!
Not such a great hostel experience- attributed to a tour group who may not have been aware of hostel etiquette I.e not repacking packs at midnight with the lights on!

Tui cathedral

Wednesday 10th Jun

Almost at the Albergue

Wednesday 10th Jun

Portuguese-Spanish border

Wednesday 10th Jun

Day 8 Vila Nova de Cerveira to Tui

Wednesday 10th Jun
Hola! 17km over 6 hrs - taking breaks ad hoc - now in Spain.
Also at the halfway mark time wise.
This is the closest I’ll get to being a nun as the hostel is a repurposed old convent. Highly recommended- great location and €16 with breakfast.
Have had my fix of Potatas bravas and Sangria for dinner so very content!

Walking the Esposita

Tuesday 9th Jun

Day 7 Caminha to Vila Nova de Cerveira

Tuesday 9th Jun
13.2 km today over 4.5 hrs.
Well - what a feast for the eyes today! Throngs of Lycra clad young men on their road bikes - possibly in training for the Vuelta in Spain in a few months.
First half of walk was on the main road and then there was the opportunity- which I took - to walk along the Esposita. This is a designated walking/ cycling path along the river bank. In many parts it was canopied with trees which offered a calm, cool walking environment. I would have to say this has been my favourite part of my walk yet.
On the other hand, Casa Gwendoline was 750m up a winding steep cobblestone track after leaving the main town area. The only anglophone amongst five young Germans in the hostel made for interesting chit chat - one girls English was excellent and so she interpreted for all. 
Tomorrow -Espanha!

For the Mateus lovers €3.75

Monday 8th Jun

Salted cod - the national favourite

Monday 8th Jun

Day 6 Carreço to Caminha

Monday 8th Jun
An easier day albeit a tad boring. Left Carreço at 0730 hrs and was in Caminha by 1200hrs - 13km on one main road. However Caminha is delightful harbour town - lots of little streets where traffic doesn’t travel. 
Found an ‘American’ diner - I think they get away with this title as they serve milkshakes, fries and onion rings! A sucker for onion rings at any time I ordered a small serve for dinner - not too bad! Struck it lucky with a fabulous hostel and was able to get a good kip. 

Fuel prices in Euos

Sunday 7th Jun

Famous man on a horse

Sunday 7th Jun

Chapel

Sunday 7th Jun

Day 5 Anha to Carreço

Sunday 7th Jun
An easier day today and deliberate on my part.
13 km and around 20000 steps.
Started out with drizzly rain however it brought a welcome coolness and didn’t last long. After navigating through a few small villages it was then walking the main road - one foot in front of another.
As I was going to be too early for hostel check in I diverted to the Intermerche - akin to the old Coles variety stores for those that remember or in UK terms an ASDA.
Bought a few essential food items and had lunch listening to a podcast for an hour. 
Good hostel - much quieter than last night and got a decent sleep.
Less than 200km to go and will be in Spain in three days 😁
Re photos - in every town there are churches and a statue of a famous man in a horse. 


Day 4 Esposende to Anha

Saturday 6th Jun
15km - no steps to declare as Fitbit died en route.
A fairly mundane day of walking on main roads with no footpaths and being honked at by traffic.
No photos as the only things of note are the small chapels dotted along the way.
Staying at a lovely Casa - it has slowly filled up this afternoon with Pilgrims of all nationalities with an Italian guy pronouncing he is starving and deciding to cook pasta for all. Must admit it smells good and he’s produced 2 bottles of wine!

Arrival at Esposende

Friday 5th Jun

Church at Apuila

Friday 5th Jun

Day 3 Vila do Conde to Esposende

Friday 5th Jun
A mammoth day! 23km and 33890 steps.
Left VDC at 0740hrs and arrived at hostel in Esposende at 1510 with a few rest stops along the way.
The first half of the walk was along the coastal boardwalks and about an hour in there were ocean winds and rain. A good drenching had by all however after walking through little villages over cobbled stone roads in low 20 degrees C, was soon dry. Nothing untoward happened- just one foot in front of the other! 
Another hostel near the beach, very clean and cheap.

Arriving at Vila do Conde

Thursday 4th Jun

Mindelo

Thursday 4th Jun

Day 2 Perafita to Vila do Conde

Thursday 4th Jun
After much deliberation last night based on reflections of Day 1, I decided to bite the proverbial bullet and use a pack transfer service. There is no way my pack and I were going to finish together on time. €7 each sector to pre booked accommodation. So last nights entertainment was booking accommodation for the whole Camino and the transfer pick up’s and delivery. This isn’t how I envisaged my Camino at all however starting off this morning was truly liberating without the weight of a 35L Mountain Design pack on my back.
Hit the road at 0740hrs and arrived in Vila do Conde at 1315hrs. Then had to wait for hostel to open at 1500hrs.
17.46km and 26261 steps.
Highlight of the day was seeing a middle aged man making his way out of the Atlantic surf in a very James Bond way and as he strode forth he revealed he was in the buff. And before breakfast! A short coffee stop at Mario’s was an experience as he served his two oldest customers their 10am tipple of port. The aroma emanating from these gents suggested this was not their first this morning!
Last unexpected site was a woman on a horse doing dressage on a beach! 


The Camino shell

Wednesday 3rd Jun

Leaving Porto

Wednesday 3rd Jun

13km. 24917 steps

Wednesday 3rd Jun
Today was a slow arduous first day. The lack of the famous yellow arrows to point the way were greatly lacking on exiting Porto. I caught myself in time to avoid being shunted onto a cargo ship as potential crew! 
Moving on the weather was glorious, the Atlantic Ocean was doing her thing and many younger pilgrims sprinting past me. However, this is my Camino and there is no right or wrong way. 
Arrived Perafita at 1315hrs - almost 6 hours on the go with one short break for an ordinary coffee! 
Room with private bathroom and ocean views - literally - €30.

Porto

Tuesday 2nd Jun

It’s on!

Tuesday 2nd Jun
0722 hrs departed from Porto Cathedral with a pack too big, a runny nose and my son Patrick with me to send me on my way!

Start delayed

Tuesday 2nd Jun
A febrile episode plus a huge rigor in the early hours of this morning has meant delaying my start until tomorrow morning. Feeling like I’ve been hit by a Mac truck best sums up how my head and body feels right now.
So lots of fluids and rest and onward and upward tomorrow 😊

Ready!

Monday 1st Jun

One more sleep!

Monday 1st Jun
Yesterday I visited the Camino Pilgrim office here in Porto and received my credentials card and shell. To earn the Camino certificate I need to walk a minimum of 100km and finish at the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela and have my card stamped at least twice per day along the way. 
This evening is a port tasting, dinner and early night. Tomorrow- it’s on!
I’ve just noticed this is posting in Australian time - a day ahead.

Lisboa!

Friday 29th May
Enjoying the city of Lisbon with my son  albeit with a stinking head cold courtesy of a long haul flight!
Leaving for Porto by train today and it’s providence that I have a few days to purge this virus from within before the Camino starts. 

Preparing for my Camino

Monday 9th Feb
On June 1st 2026 I'll commence the 260km walk from Porto in Portugal to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. The expected time to complete this is 16 days.
From hereon it is simply a matter of counting down until I arrive in Portugal. 
I thought that undertaking the Camino would be an ideal way in which to raise funds for a worthy cause.
The Prostate Cancer Foundation of Australia has been specifically selected for the following reason.
On a daily work basis, my role as an RN involves me talking to patients who have been diagnosed with or are under surveillance for prostate cancer.
Prostate cancer is the most common cancer diagnosed in Tasmania and has the highest prostate cancer - specific mortality rate in Australia.

I think this is a good enough reason to let my feet do the walking and raise some money!

Thank you to my Sponsors

$23.50

Anonymous

Good luck! I'm proud of you!

$106.12

Derick MacKinnon

$44.71

Sarah Pettit

Good luck Jayne hope you have a great time and well done on choosong a great cause!

$162.75

Frank Redwig

Great cause. Thanks for your efforts. May the weather gods be with you. Be strong and have fun.

$33.15

Anonymous

Good luck

$43.60

Megan Chem

Go Jayne Go!

$263.75

Luke Gibson

Good luck!

$106.12

Lisa Astell

Go girl!!

$120

Nick Davies

$54.12

William Evans

$54.12

Jake Tempo

Well done!

$274.30

Urology Care Tasmania

Go for it.

$54.12

Jayne Barrelle